Hello again, darklings!
In today’s tutorial I’m going to teach you one of my favourite looks: the cut crease, with two different degrees of drama depending on how extra you are feeling today. Black glitter, holographic highlighters, big lashes and purple lips; it’s going to be intense. This is the type of look that works best if you start with the eyes and leave your foundation for later. Are you ready?
Step #1: Primer. As always, we’re going to start by priming our lids. A bit of Too Faced’s Shadow Insurance will help us keeping the shadows nice and bold throughout the day, minimizing the wear.
Step #2: Time to begin building up that dark crease! With a fluffy brush and a touch of a shadow that’s slightly darker than your skin tone, in this case I’m using Lazarus from the Shade and Light eye contour palette by Kat Von D Beauty, blend that color into your crease using circular motions. Make sure to extend the shadow a bit further than your actual eye, since we will be elongating the shape of our lids quite a lot once we “cut the crease”. If your eyes are slightly hooded like mine you want to bring this shade a bit past your crease, as we will be placing the false crease above ours and we still want to see some shadows over the line.
Step #3: Now that we have our transition shade laid down it’s time to bring out the Goth Makeup Kit staple: black eyeshadow. Since we were already working with the Shade and Light eye contour palette and the black that comes with it happens to be fantastic, we’re going to lightly touch it with our fluffy brush and blend it into the crease, this time focusing the color towards the center of the crease and the inner corner of the eye. Don’t worry if the application is a bit messy towards the eyelid; that area will be covered soon. Just make sure you blend those shadows as well as you can between your crease and your brow bone.
Step #4: Let’s bring some drama to that inner corner. With a small brush apply Melt’s Industrial to the area and blend it out into the crease. This is a beautiful shadow but so shimmery that some fall-out is to be expected. To avoid this, damp your brush before picking up the shadow. You can use setting spray, mixing solution, or simply water. Once you’ve placed the shadow with the wet brush, go back to that fluffy one to blend.
Step #5: Eyeliner! Use your favourite black pencil to line both waterlines. I’m using Urban Decay’s Perversion. Make sure that there are no fleshy gaps between your lashes on the lower lid.
Step #6: With a small pencil brush and a touch of Melt’s Industrial, blend the eyeliner between your lashes and extend the line following the natural shape of your lower lash line. This is a small detail but it really makes a difference on the completed look; you won’t even notice that we’re not wearing a wing today!
Step #7: Cut that crease! To ensure that the line comes out as sharp and crisp as possible, I like to use my tiniest brush — it’s not even a makeup brush, I bought this one at the art store — and then fill in the lid using a big synthetic brush. Just make sure that the brush you’re using is not fluffy, so that it allows you to draw a straight line without much struggle. Dip your brush into your favorite concealer and start cutting yourself a new crease!
As I said, you want to place your new line above your actual crease so that it doesn’t get lost when you open your eyes. The shape of this new crease is completely up to you. I personally find that lowering it around outer corner of your eye and bringing it up towards the end of the tail is the most flattering of all the options. Once you’re happy with that line fill your whole lid with that concealer and blend it outwards. I used KVD’s Concealer Crème because it has an amazing nearly-bulletproof formula that won’t wear off or smudge, even on my crease (people with hooded eyes know the struggle).
If you’re happy with the way your cut crease looks right now you can leave it as it is, and skip the next couple of steps. Move onto step #11 to complete the look.
However, if you’re feeling extra fancy and you’re willing to get a bit messy in the name of the drama, then stay with me. (Also, you’re my favorite.)
Step #8: We’re going to bring this cut-crease to the next level through the dark magic that is black glitter. With a small brush apply some glitter adhesive to the inner corner over the crease. I’m using NYX Glitter Primer, but there are tons of options out there. Just make sure that it dries down colorless and that you don’t place it under the cut crease. Quickly tap your favorite black glitter on top before it dries. Again, there are plenty of options for black glitter but here I’m using Laurén Beauté Holo Midnight (Black) Glitz; the holo specs make it a bit more interesting in my opinion. OCC’s Black Hole is another great choice.
Repeat this process all over the cut-crease. Working in sections will ensure that the glue doesn’t dry before you get to apply the glitter on top. Our goal is to make the glitter look more packed towards the crease and more diluted towards the brow bone, so don’t worry if it looks a bit blocky right now.
Step #9: Apply another layer of glue and glitter above the previous one, this time pushing the glitter upwards as you’re applying it so it looks a bit looser and not so packed up. This will give the illusion of a nice blend towards the brow bone. To further achieve this, take some of that same glitter glue on a q-tip and apply some dots above the previous layer of glitter. With that same cotton swab take the tiniest amount of glitter and very lightly push it over those areas. You can run a clean blending brush over that edge and push the glitter around until you’re happy with the blending. It may still look a bit obvious on the close-ups but IRL it really does the trick.
Step #10: No matter how careful you are, fall-out is the price to pay when you’re working with glitter (see why I told you to do your eyes before your foundation?). Worry not, you can always take that same small brush we used before with a bit of concealer and re-cut that crease until it’s sharp again.
Step #11: Lids! Time to add some holographic goodness to those lids. By the way, hello again friends who come from the step #7, time to finish your look too!
Apply KVD’s Opal from the Alchemist palette all over the lid to turn that concealer into the most amazing pearl shade with a stunning pink reflection. To intensify this shine even further, pat a touch of the Unicorn Highlighter in the shade Glo Up by Phee’s Makeup Shop on the centre of the lid. As always, add the same mix of highlighters to your brow bone!
Step #13: Complete the look with your go-to foundation routine. I’m wearing KVD’s studded kiss lipstick in Lolita blended on my cheeks with Rituel de Fille’s Eclipse as my contour, He Loves Me Not liquid lipstick from Cryptic Cosmetics, and that same opal highlighter over the center of my lips, cheeks, nose … everywhere, really!
Which side is your favourite? Personally, I love both; it all depends on how much time I have or how much drama I feel like adding to my face on that given day! Both are beautiful looks and great alternatives to the traditional smoky eye or glitter-winged looks, don’t you think?