Today’s look is inspired by the beautiful and rusty-looking ghosts created by Guillermo del Toro. From The Devil’s Backbone to Crimson Peak, I’ve always been fascinated with the makeup in his films, from the hands of the talented David Martí and his team. In particular, there is something about the design of characters like Tomás that have always captivated me, so unique and different from the classic ‘ghost makeup.’
I wanted to recreate that rustiness and translate it into an everyday smoky eye.
Disclaimer: Since I use natural light to take my pictures you may notice some variations on the warmth and brightness of the images. Not much I can do about that now, the sun had one of those now-you-see-me-lol-now-you-don’t days. Apologies!
STEP #1: Prime the lids. A good primer is the key to any long-lasting makeup look. My all-time favorite is Too Faced’s Shadow Insurance.
STEP #2: A cream base will give us the intensity we need for a dramatic look like this one. Here, I am using Necromancy Cosmetica’s Grave Digger lipstick and blending it with my finger, as it doesn’t need to be perfect.
STEP #3: With a flat eyeshadow brush I’m packing Melt Cosmetics Enigma on the lid; avoid putting this color past the crease since we will use another shade in there to do all the blending.
STEP #4: With a fluffy blending brush run Sugarpill’s Love+ all over the crease, mixing it into the darker shade of the lid. It might take a while but alternating circular and wiping motions will give you a beautiful gradient; blending is always worth it. Feel free to reapply some Enigma on the lid if you think you’ve lost any color intensity from all the blending. Same goes for the lower lid.
STEP #5: Time to bring back the warmth. Use an eyeshadow brush to pack some Melt Cosmetic’s Rubbish on the corner under the brow. Then, with a clean blending brush run Lime Crime’s Mustard, from the Venus 2 palette, along the edges of the crease and beyond. Use this shadow to create the desired outline of the ‘wing’ too, and connect it to the lower lid.
If you ever feel like you’ve gone too far or that you’d like a more defined shape you can use some powder foundation to clean the edges and reshape the shadow. Think of it as a reverse blending: instead of spreading the color of the shadow into the skin you’re blending the color of your skin into the shadow. No makeup wipes required!
STEP #6: Run your favorite black eyeliner pencil – mine is Urban Decay’s Perversion– on both top and bottom waterlines, on the outside too. Use a pencil brush and some Makeup Geek Aphrodite to blend that line out and into the color of the lid, Aphrodite is slightly deeper than Enigma so that will give the lash line some extra intensity without using a black eyeshadow or eyeliner.
STEP #7: Time for the inner corners, a favorite of mine! With a small brush pack a decent amount of Kat Von D’s Swoon from the Better Together palette. This metallic red is stunning enough to give you the perfect inner corner on its own, but you can always add a touch of your favorite highlighter (warm toned!) on top, KVD’s Thunderstruck, for example.
A generous coat of your preferred mascara – mine is Too Faced’s Better Than Sex waterproof– and lashes. On the top lid I’m wearing Black Magic Lashes in Slayer; for the lower lid I cut small pieces from their Misfit lashes and stuck them leaving the longest bit in the middle and the shortest one closer to the inner corner.
And there you have it! A rusty smoky eye for ghosts and ghouls alike. Rust in peace, darklings.