Hello darklings! Today I bring you my take on one of the most iconic gothic looks ever, all the way from the 80s: the Siouxsie Sioux. I’m sure this doesn’t surprise anyone, but I’ve been a huge fan of her all my life and her signature eye look has fascinated me even before I dared to play with makeup. This might not be a look for the eyeliner shy, but if you want to feel like a badass goth deity this tutorial is for you!
Step #1: The Siouxsie brow is much more straight than my natural shape. I could cover them up with multiple coats of glue, powder, and concealer, but since I want to make this look as wearable as possible, I’ll just have to make them work. Her brow is also stronger than the one I usually do, so don’t be afraid to darken it from beginning to tail. Here I filled the whole thing using ABH’s Dipbrow Pomade in Granite and then added little black strokes using KVD’s Tattoo Liner in the shade Trooper to give it some extra dimension. A final coat of NYX’s tinted brow mascara in black helped me get the squared look towards the start of the brow. Sharpen the shape of the brow with a touch of concealer and, while you’re at it, prime the rest of the lid. I used Too Faced’s Shadow Insurance for that.
Step #2: With a small angled brush and a touch of black shadow (here I used the shade Devotion from the Better Together palette by Kat Von D x Too Faced collab), draw a straight line from the beginning of your brow all the way down next to your tear duct. It doesn’t have to be perfect just yet, but this line will come in handy to make the whole look as symmetrical and even as possible.
Step #3: Most of Siouxsie’s looks involve the contrast between white shadows and black liners, so today we are going to skip the flesh-toned transition shades I usually put around the crease and are going to dip our brushes straight into the white pan. Using the shade Skull from the Pastel Goth palette I covered the whole area between my brow and my crease. (The Pastel Goth palette is currently sold out, so substitute a similar shade if you didn’t score the palette while it lasted!) It doesn’t need to go all the way down the lash line because we are about to cover the rest of the lid with a dark base anyway, but this white will help us blend the color we are about to put on the crease more easily.
Step #4: Using a fluffy brush, apply a grey shadow into the crease and with circular motions blend it outwards, onto the white we already had there. I’m trying to keep the look as cool-toned as possible, so I chose Yours from the Better Together palette once again, which has a really cold undertone. Elongating the shape of the crease now will help you later when trying to find the right shape for the wing.
Step #5: As the base for the black smokey eye I’m using the Blacquer highliner by Marc Jacobs Beauty. This liner sets up remarkably fast so blend it with your finger right away to avoid harsh lines later. You can also use a blending brush, but since we’re about to cover the whole thing with black eyeshadow it doesn’t need to be perfect.
Step #6: With a flat brush pat your blackest shadow onto the lid. I chose Melt’s Dark Matter. Blend the shadow into the crease with a clean fluffy brush at first and add small amounts of the shadow later to achieve the best black-grey-white transition possible. As always, with blending, patience is key.
Step #7: Run that same black liner on the bottom lid, connecting the outer corner with the lower lash line, but stopping halfway across your lower lid. Take some of that black eyeshadow from before and use it to smoke the liner out. Take a small amount of the previous grey and run it on a fluffy brush to help the blending even further.
Step #8: With the small angled brush and some of the black shadow, complete the shape that’s attached to the brow, starting with the line we already had and turning it into a (slightly-curved-on-the-inside) triangle. Use some more shadow to blend it into the brow. Looking straight into a mirror and with the same brush and black eyeshadow, draw a tiny straight line from the tear duct to the tip of that shape, without connecting them.
Step #9: With a small brush and NYX’s Jumbo Pencil in Milk, fill in the remaining space of the lower lid, all the way to the tiny line we just drew. Apply this same pencil on the bottom waterline.
Step #10: With KVD’s trusty Tattoo Liner in Trooper, sketch the lines that contain the white space under the tear duct. Use a small brush with some of our trusty black eyeshadow and blend that under the line to connect it to the rest of the lower lid. Set the white area with Skull (or your dupe) to make sure it stays bright and in place all day.
Step #10: Here comes the scariest part: The Wing! Don’t worry, take your time. Start by building a small triangle from the line you already had on the inner corner and to the corner of your crease, fill it in with the same liner.
Time for the outer wing. The Siouxsie wing is meant to be bold and quite extreme, so don’t be afraid to run that liquid liner all the way past your brow if necessary!
Step #11: Connect the inner and outer wings with a thick straight line using the same Tattoo Liner. Run the black pencil on your top water line to avoid flesh-toned gaps between the lashes!
Step #12: Lash time! Apply a coat of your favourite mascara. Mine is Too Faced’s Better Than Sex Waterproof. Add a pair of fabulous cruelty free lashes and your eyes are done. I used Aether lashes in Belladonna.
Step #13: Finish the look by giving yourself some Sioux-worthy cheekbones with Rituel de Fille’s Eclipse as contour and go a bit crazy with the blush because, well, it’s the 80s. Basically don’t be afraid to cover your contour with pinks and reds– it goes with the look. I applied KVD’s Studded Kiss lipstick in Lolita with a sponge and topped it with all the blush shades from the Lunatick Cosmetic Labs’ Contour Book Vol. 1. I added some pink and purple highlighters from the ABH Moonchild Glow Kit and the face was completed.